TAKE OFF: Experience the wonders of the capital from the air

In a country which declared its independence from the Soviet Union in 1990, the city’s past has certainly left its mark.

Quirky bars and cafes separate stunning medieval churches from huge communist structures, making our five-minute stroll to dinner a visual potted history.

Diverse blends continue at Ertlio Namas restaurant, which serves traditional Lithuanian cuisine with a modern twist.

MAGNIFICENT: The jewel in Vilnius is its Old Town

A starter of snail caviar with cannabis oil and homemade bread dropped this unadventurous diner right in the deep end.

Further courses of boiled venison dumplings and fried pike were certainly interesting and, with the helpful waiting staff explaining the heritage of each dish, I left the restaurant feeling a little more connected to this fascinating country.

Our base in Vilnius, the Amberton Hotel, is right in the heart of the city, overlooking the town square.

The chic, modern rooms have large en suites with lovely deep Jacuzzi baths, very comfy beds, a chic French restaurant and a spa for tourists who want to rest their feet after a long day pounding the cobbled streets on the history trail.

WORSHIP: The Cathedral of St. Stanislav and St. Vladislav with the bell tower

Lithuania was the last country in Europe to convert from paganism to Christianity and grand churches can be found on almost every corner.

Go to see the cathedral, in the city’s main square, then venture up its separate bell tower and you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views.

There’s also Gediminas Castle, standing proudly above the city centre’s 157ft hill, with its excellent observation platform.

The recent BBC series of War and Peace was filmed almost entirely in Lithuania.

The intricate streets, courtyards and churches of Vilnius doubled as Moscow and Austria, and walking tours are available for fans.

The jewel in Vilnius, however, is its Old Town, Užupis. This once impoverished area, which is separated from the city by the Vilnele River, has become a cultural hub for Lithuanian art and politics and is now a self-proclaimed independent republic where the primary requirement for entry is a smile.

Check out its constitution fixed to a wall in Paupio Street. The list includes “everyone has the right to be happy” and to “make mistakes”.

Have a pint in its “parliament” by the river, then spend an hour at the Gallery of Blacksmith’s where you can learn about this ancient skill, and they will even let you shape a nail.

POPULAR: Over the Galve Lake is the Trakai old red bricks castle

For lunch we went to Džiaugsmas, meaning “joy” in Lithuanian.

It was opened in February by one of the best chefs in the country – Martynas Praškeviius. Try the red beetroot salad with a glass of the Pheasants’ Tears red wine.

Dinner was at the funky new Sweetroot restaurant which serves local, seasonal cuisine including bitesize portions of ox cheek dumplings, pork kiev and a light dessert of apple sorbet.

From here, if you fancy a few postdinner drinks, it’s a short walk to Gedimina Avenue.

Beer in Lithuania is cheap: a round of five pints in Craft and Draft, which has its own microbrewery, costs under 12 euros.

Their Honey Bloom IPA is superb. About an hour’s drive from Vilnius is the beautiful city of Trakai.

INDEPENDENCE: Lithuania declared its independence from the Soviet Union in 1990

It’s in an area surrounded by huge lakes, ideal for taking a romantic ride on a pedalo or lazing on the banks.

On one of Lake Galve’s 21 islands is a magnificent 14th Century castle and we spent an afternoon cruising around it on a boat.

Half an hour’s drive away is the luxurious Vytautas Mineral Spa in Birstonas, a town known for its mineral water sources.

This futuristic-looking complex, hidden in a nine-acre countryside setting, opened at the beginning of the year, and takes advantage of the water’s health-improving properties.

Rounding off our trip, we took a ride with the Audenis Balloon club for 100 euros and toasted this culturally rich country with a glass of bubbly 2,000ft in the air.